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2 pounds floury potatoes, peeled
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 ¼ cups unbleached flour
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Boil the potatoes in salted water. Mash them or put them through a ricer into a large bowl. Best to have no lumps.
Add the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Blend the four into the mixture, about 1/3 cup at a time. The dough should be smooth.
Divide the dough into about six portions. Roll each portion into a stick or tube, about ¾ inch in diameter.
Cut each stick into 1-inch pieces, on a diagonal. Then, press the tine of a fork into each piece.
Bring 4 quarts of unsalted water to boil. Add the dumplings to the water a few at a time, waiting for them to boil to the surface. When they do, wait about 10 seconds, then, using a slotted spoon, remove them and put them into a warm bowl.
Toss with the sauce of your choosing, or just pats of butter, and sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste.